chivo

Banzai pipeline / log cabins? Spring break, looks serene, fun, almost whimsical.

Classic family surf trip. Big square peg. Small round hole.

Stategy: Big hammer, lots of force.

Result, very memorable day. Made it snorkeling @ Turtle bay.

The show 808 and rerunning John from Cincinnati is helping me revisit Island style. I may be lolo but I'm not pupule, Haole yes, lolo yes, but not pupule.